In a city like London, where the restaurant scene is dynamic and competitive, achieving lasting success requires more than just serving good food. This is where Cornus comes into play, the brainchild of David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne, the duo behind Chelsea’s renowned Medlar. Unlike Medlar, which has thrived for over a decade, the journey to opening Cornus was riddled with challenges and setbacks. From Brexit to Covid and stiff competition from larger operators with deeper pockets, O’Connor and Nairne had to navigate a complex landscape before finding the perfect opportunity.
Located on the rooftop of The Ice Factory at Eccleston Yards, near London Victoria, Cornus offers a prime location with star-worthy food crafted by executive chef Gary Foulkes. The decision to partner with Grosvenor and choose a renovated 19th-century warehouse for the restaurant’s setting proved to be a strategic move. With panoramic views of Belgravia, Cornus provides a distinctive dining experience in an area lacking in luxury rooftops. The transformation of the space from a concrete shell into a 70-cover restaurant in just six months marked a significant contrast to the launch of Medlar 15 years prior.
Chef Foulkes brings an ingredient-led approach to Cornus, focusing on British and European seasonal produce with a contemporary twist. Dishes like native lobster with hand-rolled spaghetti, seabass tartare with oyster cream, and roast Landes chicken with Scottish langoustines showcase the kitchen’s commitment to sustainability and flavor. The dessert menu, created in collaboration with head pastry chef Kelly Cullen, offers a delightful mix of comfort and sophistication, with dishes like creamed rice pudding and English raspberry mille-feuille.
The Financial Challenge of Self-Funding
Unlike many upscale restaurants that rely on external investment, Cornus is entirely self-funded by O’Connor and Nairne, with support from Grosvenor Estate. The journey from opening Medlar on a shoestring budget to launching Cornus involved a different financial undertaking. Self-funding has its own challenges, especially in today’s economic climate, with rising food costs and supply chain disruptions. However, O’Connor and Nairne’s commitment to their vision and their willingness to overcome obstacles have been instrumental in the success of Cornus.
With promising results from its initial launch, Cornus aims to fully open its outdoor terraces by 2025 while focusing on fine-tuning kitchen and front-of-house operations. The team’s dedication to quality, service, and a unique dining experience sets Cornus apart from its competitors. Despite the external pressures and uncertainties in the hospitality industry, O’Connor and Nairne remain focused on building a reputation for Cornus as an institution known for its exceptional food, wine, and service.
Cornus represents a new chapter in O’Connor and Nairne’s culinary journey, marked by resilience, creativity, and a steadfast commitment to excellence. As they navigate the challenges of the competitive London restaurant scene, Cornus stands out as a beacon of culinary mastery and innovation.