Alaska, the land of vast wilderness and breathtaking landscapes, beckons travelers with its glaciers, majestic whales, and elusive bears. Among these three marvels, it is often the bears that pose the greatest challenge for those seeking to catch a glimpse of their wild existence. Despite their iconic status, bear sightings can be elusive, making any opportunity to observe them in their natural habitat particularly exciting. This article recounts an exhilarating excursion from Ketchikan to observe black bears feeding along the shores of Neet’s Bay, delving into the experience and the awe-inspiring environment of Alaska.
Our adventure commenced at the Ward’s Cove cruise pier, where we disembarked from the luxurious Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer. Excitement filled the air as our group boarded a comfortable bus destined for a nearby dock, where we would board a jet boat provided by Adventure Ketchikan Tours. The anticipation of finding bears combined with the stunning scenery that enveloped us during the hour-long boat ride heightened our eagerness. We traversed through remote waters, far removed from urban habitation, which is often where wildlife thrives.
What especially contributed to the high probability of a bear sighting was our destination—Neet’s Bay, a location where a lively freshwater stream converges with the ocean. This ideal habitat attracted not only the bears but also the very fish they sought—salmon attempting to navigate upstream to spawn. Our skilled guide provided fascinating insights into the local ecosystem, including the intricate dynamics of the salmon population and the historical context surrounding Alaska’s expansive wilderness. Learning about the U.S. Navy installation nearby—the Southeast Alaska Acoustic Measurement Facility—added an unexpected layer of intrigue, showcasing how intertwined human presence is with this untamed land.
Upon arriving at Neet’s Bay Hatchery, our excitement peaked as we ventured along a muddy path toward the stream. The guide pointed out telltale signs of bear activity, including tree gouge marks left by climbing bears and sheltered dens hidden beneath the foliage. To many in our group, the sighting of bears felt like a mere dream; would we really see them in action?
As if scripted by nature itself, our wait ended almost instantly. Just several yards from the viewing platform, two robust black bears, each weighing around 350 pounds, gracefully navigated the rushing stream, their eyes keenly focused on the water below. The thrill of seeing these magnificent creatures in the wild was palpable, and as we maintained a respectful distance, our hearts raced with excitement. The time was synchronized perfectly with the bears’ feeding schedule, as late July to early September is the prime season for salmon spawning.
While other wildlife enthusiasts might rave about seeing multiple bears congregated in one place, I found immense joy in our intimate encounter. During a previous trip, I had stood fruitlessly for nearly an hour in freezing temperatures without spotting a single bear. Alas, here we were, entranced by the deft fishing skills of these remarkable bears as they seized their midday meal from the stream.
As moments unfolded before us, the bears demonstrated a fascinating fishing prowess. Just when it seemed they weren’t having much luck, one proudly emerged from the stream holding a writhing salmon in its jaws. The bear ambled over to a nearby rock, where, in a matter of minutes, it began to dismantle its catch. Observing this natural spectacle illustrated the bears’ primal instincts; they often prioritize female salmon laden with roe, the rich reserves of fatty tissue they require to thrive through winter. Indeed, black bears frequently aim to bulk up by about 200 pounds in preparation for hibernation.
Neet’s Bay Hatchery plays a crucial role in maintaining the balance of this ecosystem by ensuring that salmon fry survive and grow. Tourists benefit from the hatchery’s intervention, which helps sustain the species against predation and environmental adversity. It was fascinating to grasp how human efforts intertwine with nature, enhancing the experience for those of us eager to encounter wildlife.
The return journey to Ketchikan did not yield the sighting of whales, but we were rewarded by the playful antics of stately Steller sea lions perched atop rocky outcrops. As these behemoths basked in the weak sunlight, a sense of holistic satisfaction washed over our group. We had witnessed the raw beauty of Alaska’s wilderness and experienced the thrill of observing bears in their natural environment, indulging in nature’s bounty.
As the boat sped back toward civilization, reflections on the day’s adventure filled me with gratitude. While encounters with nature often evoke a sense of vulnerability, they also impart a deep connection with the wild. Resting against the boat’s rail, I longed for dry clothes and a steaming mug of coffee to conclude this extraordinary adventure, carrying with me the precious memories of that enchanting encounter with Alaska’s black bears.