Nestled on Bruton Place, just a stone’s throw away from the frenetic energy of Oxford Circus, UMU has quietly established itself as a culinary gem in the bustling London restaurant scene. Despite not being part of the trendy new eateries that dominate the city’s hot lists, UMU has garnered a loyal following over its two decades of operation. The restaurant’s enduring Michelin star status, held for an impressive eight years, is a testament to its unwavering commitment to excellence.
Reflecting on his own culinary journey, executive chef Ryo Kamatsu traces his path from Argentina to Japan, where he honed his skills and immersed himself in the rich tapestry of Japanese cuisine. His formative training at Kaiseki Ichimonji was a rigorous experience that laid the foundation for his culinary prowess. Kamatsu’s tenure at UMU, which began in 2014, marked a significant turning point in his career. Under the guidance of Yoshinori Ishii, the restaurant underwent a transformation, embracing modern interpretations of traditional Kaiseki cuisine and incorporating Ikejime Cornish fish into its offerings. Kamatsu’s eventual takeover in 2020 signaled a new chapter for UMU, as he continued to build on the restaurant’s strong legacy while infusing it with his own creative flair.
Kaiseki, a traditional Japanese multi-course haute cuisine, lies at the heart of UMU’s culinary philosophy. With roots in the ancient Japanese tea ceremony, Kaiseki embodies the art of balance, harmony, and seasonality in its dishes. UMU’s commitment to preserving the essence of Kaiseki cuisine while adding a touch of modernity sets it apart as a beacon of traditional Japanese culinary artistry in London. Drawing inspiration from Kyoto cuisine, UMU showcases the delicate flavors and textures of Kyo-ryori, exemplifying the culinary heritage of Japan’s ancient capital.
Innovative pairings of dishes and drinks play a pivotal role in UMU’s dining experience. Head sake sommelier Ryan Johnson collaborates closely with Chef Kamatsu to craft curated drink pairings that complement and elevate the flavors of each dish. By incorporating soft water into their dashi and embracing the demand for saké in the UK, UMU captures the essence of Japanese culinary traditions while adapting to contemporary tastes. The meticulous attention to detail in the pairing process ensures that each sip and bite harmonize seamlessly, offering a sensory journey for diners.
UMU’s commitment to honoring traditional Japanese culinary techniques sets it apart from its peers in the culinary world. While some chefs may rely on cutting-edge kitchen technology, Kamatsu emphasizes the importance of traditional methods and equipment in creating authentic Japanese dishes. The restaurant’s focus on the five traditional cooking techniques—raw, steamed, grilled, fried, and simmered—serves as the foundation for its innovative menu offerings. By striking a delicate balance between tradition and innovation, UMU has carved out a distinct identity that resonates with diners seeking a truly unique gastronomic experience.
As UMU embarks on its next chapter, Chef Ryo Kamatsu envisions a future where Japanese culinary traditions continue to evolve and captivate audiences beyond the realm of sushi. With an unwavering dedication to quality ingredients, meticulous preparation techniques, and a team of locally-trained chefs, UMU embodies the essence of culinary excellence. Each dish on the restaurant’s menu, from the delicate Mukozuke to the flavorful Yakimono, offers a glimpse into the sublime artistry of Kaiseki cuisine. UMU’s ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation, passion with precision, is a testament to its enduring legacy in London’s vibrant culinary landscape.