With the culinary world reeling from the impacts of the pandemic, the launch of a new restaurant comes with its own set of unique challenges. Yet, Ayesha Kalaji defied those odds when she opened her Middle Eastern eatery, Queen of Cups, in Glastonbury, just as restrictions were lifted. As she recounts the momentous decision to transform a dilapidated coaching house into a vibrant dining venue, Kalaji vividly recalls the nervous anticipation that hung in the air. “We opened the day after indoor dining was allowed again, and the atmosphere was incredibly tense,” she explains. “But our goal was to create a space that would serve as a community refuge amidst the chaos.”
Her ambition was to cultivate an environment that felt warm and welcoming, a counter-narrative to what many were experiencing at the time. Kalaji’s dedication to this vision was unwavering: she spent six intense weeks revamping the space, sacrificing her days to recipe testing and nights to heavy renovation work. Reflecting on that tumultuous period, she quips, “If anyone asks if you want to turn a 17th-century coaching house into a restaurant in six weeks, say no!” It is this blend of both tenacity and humor that continues to infuse Queen of Cups with a unique character.
Embracing Local Flavor with a Mystical Twist
Kalaji understands that maintaining a connection with the local community is fundamental to her restaurant’s success. Drawn from the history of the original coaching house, she aimed for a blend of nostalgia and innovation, as reflected in both the cuisine and restaurant ethos. She wanted her menu to resonate with the tastes of Glastonbury’s residents while introducing them to the broader landscape of Middle Eastern culinary tradition. The decision to adopt a spiritual theme, named after the Queen of Cups tarot card, reflects Kalaji’s personal values of compassion, emotional connection, and feminine energy.
“Everyone should be free to express themselves here,” she says, summarizing the restaurant’s inclusive atmosphere. The playful ambiance did not just appeal to tourists but also resonated with locals who cherished a dining experience that allows for authenticity and creativity. Kalaji’s culinary philosophy mirrors this inclusivity; she explores textures and flavors that challenge preconceived notions of what Middle Eastern cuisine can represent. By spotlighting lesser-known ingredients, like mulukhiya, she invites a sense of curiosity into her dishes.
Ayesha Kalaji’s commitment to pushing culinary boundaries hasn’t gone unnoticed. Queen of Cups quickly garnered accolades that would be the envy of any restaurateur. The recognition from the Michelin Guide, culminating in a Bib Gourmand award, took Kalaji by surprise. “Reading that email from Michelin was pure disbelief,” she recalls. While she acknowledges that her culinary approach leans towards comfort rather than pretentiousness, her dishes—stylishly presented yet grounded in tradition—have paved the way for a groundbreaking reputation.
Yet, her success extends beyond Michelin recognition. By creating a balance between innovative cuisine and a community-oriented environment, Kalaji has ensured that customer engagement remains a key pillar of her business. The recognition has undeniably increased footfall, but her enduring focus on local patrons demonstrates a commitment to nurturing relationships that last beyond accolades and attention.
Looking ahead, Kalaji envisions Queen of Cups as not merely a restaurant, but a hub for community engagement and cultural celebration. With events like LGBTQ+ nights and jazz performances, she aims to continue forging stronger local ties while inviting a diverse array of culinary enthusiasts into the fold. “Your locals are the ones who support you during tough times,” she emphasizes, reminding the culinary world that roots are just as vital as new growth.
As Queen of Cups solidifies its place in Glastonbury, Kalaji remains energized to expand both her team and her culinary repertoire. “When I win, everyone around me wins,” she expresses, underscoring her belief in a collective triumph that transcends individual success. This philosophy not only enriches the dining experience for her guests but also sets a powerful example for aspiring restaurateurs. With Ayesha Kalaji leading the charge, Queen of Cups promises to remain a beacon of culinary creativity and community spirit in Glastonbury for years to come.