Nestled just 1.8 miles off the coast of mainland China, Kinmen Island has long been a witness to tumultuous history. Its legacy is painted with vivid strokes of military conflict, dating back to the mid-20th century when it stood as a crucial battleground in the cross-strait conflict between China and Taiwan. Today, remnants of this military past embellish its landscape, as evidenced by the coffee shop owned by Zhang Zhong Jie, located in an abandoned military fortification with rusting tanks marking its entrance. This contrast of serene café culture against a backdrop of war relics creates a unique atmosphere that defines Kinmen. Despite the threat of invasion long lingering just beyond its beaches, the island had gradually turned towards tourism in an effort to revitalize its economy.
Since its opening in 2018, Zhang’s café thrived on an influx of tourists from mainland China, who flocked in significant numbers—two to three busloads daily—before geopolitical tensions disrupted this flow. Issues escalated in August 2019 when Beijing implemented a ban on individual travelers due to deteriorating relations with Taiwan, further compounded by restrictions brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. “We haven’t had mainland tourists for years,” Zhang lamented, portraying the stark reality faced by many Kinmen businesses. This absence has been felt throughout the island, where the tourism sector was heavily reliant on Chinese visitors, having previously contributed around $200 million to the local economy.
Tourism: A Key Player in Kinmen’s Revival
As military presence diminished, Kinmen shifted its focus toward tourism with a diverse range of offerings that included quaint cafés in military shells and restaurants serving eccentric local cuisine. At its peak, the influx of tourists—particularly from mainland China—was a lifeline for businesses such as Beddy Chang’s noodle shop, which once catered to an overwhelming 80% of Chinese visitors. Today, Chang has pivoted towards exporting products, revealing the adaptive strategies adopted by local business owners in response to the evolving landscape. Others like Wu Zeng Yun, who have moved operations to Taiwan’s main island, illustrate the broader trend of businesses seeking refuge amid the uncertainty of cross-strait relations.
The specter of military tension looms large as recent incidents have exacerbated fears among Kinmen’s residents. After a collision incident on February 14 claimed the lives of two Chinese citizens, relations further soured, and the Chinese Coast Guard’s assertive presence in the region intensified, showcasing an undercurrent of fear that impacts daily life. The tourism industry, once a cornerstone of the local economy, is now fraught with uncertainty. Lu Wen Shiung, a former restaurant owner turned fisherman, articulated this anxiety, claiming, “There is a slight concern that if we are taken while in our waters, we might be subjected to some unconventional treatment.” His apprehensions underscore the gripping reality that many Kinmen residents face, caught between pressing economic needs and the overarching narrative of regional security.
However, after a lengthy hiatus, the resumption of tourist activities has begun to take shape. Reports indicate the first group of mainland tourists made their way to Kinmen in late September, sparking hope in the local community for a gradual return to normalcy. Local legislator Chen Yu Jen’s visit to Beijing indicates proactive measures taken to revive tourism, even if skepticism prevails about its sustainability. The ongoing vacuum of tourists has led to fear that Kinmen may never regain its former marvel, yet the whispers of optimism from local guides, including Chen Hua Sheng, suggest a yearning for renewal amidst uncertainty.
In the face of towering military tensions and shifts in tourism dynamics, Kinmen’s story is one of resilience and adaptation. The journey back to a thriving tourism sector is fraught with risks and challenges, yet the spirit of the island’s residents shines brightly, reflecting their commitment to chartting a hopeful future. Though the memories of conflict lace their experiences, the people of Kinmen continue to look forward, eager to draw visitors to their unique blend of history, culture, and stunning landscapes. As the delicate balance between security and tourism unfolds, it is the perseverance of the local community that will ultimately influence Kinmen’s economic trajectory moving forward.